

If youre using studs, try and make the marks in. Set the shelf against the wall in the desired location, level it with a torpedo level, and draw a line on the wall along the bottom edge using a pencil.

I have located the studs most are 16 inches apart, and one is 13.5 inches from its neighbor. Next, using chalk or a pencil, make directional marks on the wall where youll want to screw in the shelves.

The rear piece I'll fasten to the wall - I could add little right angle support brackets at each side but I don't think necessary, and finally a 2x1 across the front, secured to each side with angle brackets and glued to the edge of the shelf to hide the plywood. I have a plaster wall and Im looking to hang a floating shelf from it (no brackets). Part of the framework for a stud wall, these are the horizontal timber. On the LHS I can do the same - although considering using 2x1 instead which is 18mm thick so I don't box out as much - I can run 3 lengths rather than two - one in the middle for extra strength. Adding new shelves is a great way of saving valuable floor space and showing off. Update- I decided to rip the front off the boxing - the sides are wood about 34mm deep which is perfect - I can simply extend the boxing to the depth of the shelf - two 34mm square posts in front and and back corners and cover with something like 9mm mdf - it means I've boxed out more than i need to for the pipe, but makes cutting the ply a whole lot easier! Batons can screw direct into the CLS posts so that's the RH sorted. By furring the surface in an apposing direction or at an angle to the framing first, then the finished panels at whatever angle was desired - without plaster or drywall at all. Slotted hooks also make it easy to hang Wall Control’s storage accessories, like baskets, small shelves, and even a paper towel holder, so you can further customize the space beyond the individual hooks. In earlier period paneling jobs, is wasnt unusual for the carpenter to panel a wall, not unlike they would panel a floor. I've also got skirting to deal with if I wanted to set my "feet" into the corners. Just insert the standard 1/4-inch hooks and start hanging tools to keep everything you need within arm’s reach in your garage. I'm currently leaning towards a floor standing, but wall supported system instead then I won't ever worry about how much weight I put on the shelves - just trying to get my head around the easiest way to build it - not helped by the rear wall having quite a curve in it - the centre is about 8mm deeper than the corners, or the presence of boxing on the RHS, 19cm out from the corner, 13cm wide and sticks out 4.5cm, and (difficult to tell currently with the curves and the boxing) I suspect that the RHS is a few degrees out of a right angle. If my only option was a flat wall, then I'd agree, but having the two side walls to use it would be crazy to attempt to put all the support on the rear one.
